Lopsang and I began the trek to Chomrong from Nayapul (which means new bridge) on a really rainy day. We climbed steadily up a trail that had become a small river from the rain and slowly ascended this beautiful valley. All the way we paralleled the beautiful Modi Koala which was full from the rains and roaring down the valley. At various places along the way there were small tea houses where we could stop for a quick cup of chia. The temperature was quite warm so the rain was not uncomfortable, but all the same the tea tasted luscious.
Part way we overtook these porters who were carrying heavy loads up to base camp for a British Expedition that would be heading up when the Monsoon eased up for an attempt on Gangapurna IV . For the rest of the day we stayed with the porters, or they kept up with us. They were amazed at how fast we could move up the mountain and at one point I took one of the loads to compare it to loads I have carried in the White Mountains of New Hampshire back in the US where I worked summers during college. There we were used to packing 150 to 225 pounds of supplies on our back for distances that varied from 1.5 to 7 miles. We carried these loads on rigid pack boards unlike the porters in Nepal who use these wicker-type baskets. We didn't pack in flip flops, either!
Their loads were around 80 to 90 pounds and they supported all that weight on tump lines, the straps you see stretched across the crowns of their heads.
Just below Ghandrung the trail ended at this massive landslide that had come down in the past few days due to the heavy rains. The porters were nervous and didn't want to cross. One problem was a small torrent running down the slide. I asked some young boys who were watching us with great curiosity to help me build a bridge. This was my Annapurna Bridge! In the accounts of the 1950 French expedition to Annapurna that I read as a kid they followed the Miriste Koala up the west side of Annapurna and at one point had to build a bridge from bamboo across the river. I fantasized, like a lot of my school boy chums, about climbing Annapurna and having to build a bridge to conquer the mountain. Now I had my chance! The boys and I were one in our enthusiasm and admiration of the final product!
So we were able to cross the landslide without any mishaps. It seemed solid to me so I was surprised that the porters were so anxious about it. In fact, I began to think it was a lot more than just a few days old but kept my thoughts to myself. We reached Chomrong in late afternoon in a light rain with the clouds coming down around us. We stayed at a small, lovely inn run by a very kind Gurund (Gurka) man.
Friday, January 9, 2009
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